After visiting 35 countries in Europe, I had reached Cyprus on my to-do list. Many of my former coworkers who had served there in a peacekeeping capacity had told me that it was a beautiful country and worth the visit, but given its location in the eastern Mediterranean, it seemed like a place that I'd be unlikely to visit if I were living in Canada. So this was a good opportunity to go there while in Paris, especially since I was able to find direct flights to and from Larnaca (albeit with awkward scheduling on the return flight).
The downside was that I was going a bit late in the year. By late June, the temperatures are still bearable (around 33ºC) but the humidity was also very high. Due to its eastern location, the island state is more popular with Russian and Czech tourists than Westerners, and I noticed that some of the hotel staff could speak fluent Russian, but English was spoken everywhere I went.
With three days (and a short morning on a fourth day), I travelled to a different city each day.
Paphos
My first day was spent in Paphos, a city on the southwest coast of Cyprus. While travel forums mention that bus service for getting around Cyprus is slow and infrequent, I actually found the bus service to be very efficient (as long as you know the schedule and plan ahead). The public transit intercity bus from Larnaca to Paphos was direct and took a little over two hours (not bad for traversing half the country). Anyways, while Paphos does have a few sandy (but small) beaches in the area, it's better known for its archaeological sites related to Roman, Venetian and Ottoman history.
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| Paphos Castle is located next to the harbour on the southwest coast of the city. This version of the castle was dismantled by the Venetians in 1570 but then rebuilt by the Ottoman Turks in 1592. There are a few historical displays on the first floor and a low-level view of the surrounding coast from the battlements. |
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| Ayia Kyriaki Chrysopolitissa Church was built around 1500 AD as a Latin church but is now also shared with Anglican and Greek Orthodox services. The building is surrounded by the ruins of a basilica that was constructed throughout the 4th to 7th centuries. Also on the site is a pillar where Saint Paul was apparently flogged for preaching Christianity. |
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| The Hellenistic Theater, seen from the top of Saint Solomon's Catacombs. The catacombs did not offer much to see, but the theater was a pleasant surprise, even if it is heavily weathered. Excavations of the site revealed that the theater was likely used from the fourth century BC to as late as the fourth century AD. |
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| The Tombs of the Kings is a UNESCO World Heritage Site containing nine tombs of former local aristocrats dated from between the fourth century BC to the third century AD. I found this site more interesting in that you could climb down and look inside each tomb. |
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| Kato Paphos Archaeological Park is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and contains a wide assortment of sites dating from prehistoric times to the Middle Ages. The most notable sites are four Roman villas and the best-preserved one of these is the House of Dionysus. The villa contains about 25 different mosaics, most of which are complete, with their designs still clearly visible. Pictured is the mosaic of room 16. Only the House of Dionysus and the House of Aion had their mosaics sheltered in a modern building, which is too bad because the House of Theseus also contains a beautiful mosaic which is worth sheltering for long-term preservation. Also, there was an agora at the archaeological park, but it looked almost completely worn away. |
Nicosia (aka Lefkosia)
I spent the second day of my trip in Nicosia, the capital and largest city of Cyprus. Buses between Larnaca and Nicosia are frequent and only take about 1 hour and 15 minutes. The unique aspect of this city is that it is a divided capital. The southern half of the city is on the Greek side of the UN-administered buffer zone, while the northern half is on the Turkish side. Since there's a border crossing right at the center of the old city, I had the chance to visit both sides.
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| The Cyprus Museum is a small museum containing high quality archeological artifacts from the country. There were very well preserved items here, including Chalcolithic cruciform figurines, vases with ornate spouts and (pictured) a sampling of the terracotta figurines found at the Sanctuary of Ayia Irina. These figures are dated as far back as the late Bronze Age (1200 to 1050 BC). I thought that the lower quantity but higher quality of artifacts at this museum made it more interesting than the larger archaeological museums that I had visited in Greece and Turkey. |
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| Access between the Greek and Turkish sides of Cyprus is controlled like a border. Pictured is the Ledra Street Crossing, on the Greek side of the buffer zone. The buffer zone between the two checkpoints was about 75 meters in length and all of the side streets were blocked. Access requires presentation of your passport and occasionally an explanation of your reason for crossing. |
When I crossed over to the Turkish side of the city, it felt like I was back in Istanbul. The streets were more like a bazaar of vendors (although they weren't as aggressive at selling as in Turkey) and prices were quoted in both Euros and lira. However, the touristy atmosphere trails off after you get a few blocks away from the buffer zone crossing.
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| The Selimiye Mosque was originally Saint Sophia Cathedral but later converted into a mosque. The interior of the building still has the form of a cathedral, but the mihrab is located off to the side. |
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| A photo of the Buyuk Han (Great Inn) with the two towers of the Selimiye Mosque in the background. In the center of the courtyard is a small mosque. The hallways on the upper level around the courtyard are lined with vendors selling souvenirs and local crafts. |
I also visited the Municipal Market but it must have been an off-peak day because only the grocery vendors were open. Most of the other compelling sites on the Turkish side were on the far edges of the old city, so I went back to the Greek side.
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| A view of Nicosia from the Shacolos Tower Observatory, facing north. In the distant center, you might see a flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus painted onto the mountain. Some Greek Cypriots consider this display as a provocation. |
On the Greek side, I visited Saint John's Cathedral, which had a beautiful interior, but photos were not allowed. When I arrived at the Ethnological Museum (at the House of Hadjigeorgakis Kornesios), the museum was 15 minutes from closing so the staff gave me free admission. It turned out that the museum was so small that I was able to see most of it in 10 minutes anyway. It was basically a small mansion in the traditional style of Cyprus, with a few additional displays of Cypriot pottery, woodwork and art.
Ayia Napa
Ayia Napa was a different destination. On the southeast coast of Cyprus, Ayia Napa is known more for its beaches and party atmosphere than for any sightseeing (although there are a few sites there). While the buses to Paphos and Nicosia were only half full (with older tourists), the bus to Ayia Napa was full (with younger tourists) and fortunately I waited at a stop earlier in the route for the return trip because people were being turned away for lack of space. I was a little worried that I'd be heading into festivals of douchebags and woo-girls akin to college spring break in Cancun, but it turns out that Ayia Napa is relatively tranquil and reserved (although I left in the early evening before the clubbing would have started).
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| Nissi Beach is the beach for the younger crowd in Ayia Napa. There is a small island to which you can walk without going more than waist deep in the water. Pictured is a shot of Nissi Beach from the island. |
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| Pantachou Beach is also a popular beach in Ayia Napa, although it has a slightly older crowd. |
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| In between Nissi and Pantachou is a small cove where the Vathia Gonia Beach is located. This beach seemed to have younger families, probably due to the calmer waters that the cove provided. |
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| Further east of the popular beaches, there are smaller beaches interspersed amongst a rocky coast. There was a wide variety of sightseeing ships and party cruisers that passed by every few minutes. |
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| There aren't a lot of notable sites in the town of Ayia Napa, although there were two churches and a monastery open to tourists. Pictured is the courtyard at the Ayia Napa Monastery. It was small enough that it looked like it wouldn't have housed more than five or six monks at a time. |
Larnaca
I had enough time before my return flight on Monday to check out a few sites near my hotel in Larnaca. It's primarily a beach resort town with a few historical points of interest.
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| Larnaca Castle is a medieval fort on the coast. There is a small museum in the front building as well as medieval armaments and tombstones on display at the back. The taller tower belongs to a mosque behind the castle. |
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| A view of Finikoudes Beach from the top of Larnaca Castle. The beach is moderately busy during the afternoon and is much quieter than the beaches in Ayia Napa. |
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| Saint Lazarus Church. The interior is moderately ornate and decorated like most Greek Orthodox churches. |
There was also a salt lake and an 18th century aqueduct that I spotted during my trips in and out of the city, although they were too far from the city centre and not really worth the effort of visiting unless you were on the way to something else.
So that was Cyprus over three (and a quarter) days. The country felt a bit like a Greek island in that it offered a mix of archaeological sites, sandy beaches and great weather, although it certainly felt like Turkey when I crossed into the northern part of Nicosia. If I had the extra time, I would have also visited Limassol on the south coast or Kyrenia on the north coast, but I think I got a good feel for different parts of the country (well, the Greek side). My next trip is to another southern destination and I'll post more details in about three weeks.
